Day 3 - Puttering across PA

Day 3

Alec Kennedy Shelter to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel

Time on trail - 8:10

Miles - 16

Avg speed - 1.9 mph

I'd thought I'd be alone at the Alec Kennedy Shelter, but just after dark a dad and two kids hiked in. The kids (boy 10, and girl 11) were delightful and the dad unfailingly polite, so it was fun to talk to them about trail life.

In the morning I described how my stove worked, what I ate, and how I packed my gear to a rapt audience and then hit the trail. 

Today wasn't a long day (about 16 miles) so there was no need to rush. Hike an hour, take a break, hike another hour, take a longer break. 

Seven or so miles in I took a short detour to the Green Mountain General Store; indulged in a Coke and an ice cream sandwich and talked to Waffle Sole, a Frenchman who's done several AT section hikes. 

Moving forward, I stopped for a lunch and nap at the next shelter, catching up with Bee Sting before he moved on.

Lunch and siesta.

After a putzy morning, it was time to make some miles. I picked up the pace and knocked out some solid miles to arrive at Pine Grove Furnace State Park, a lovely PA state park.

As proof I'm in the SOBO bubble I ran into a pod of SOBOs hanging out in the park, most of whom I actually had already met.

SOBOs - what's a 56-year old guy doing hanging out with them? From left: Rockman, Highlander, "unknown", Chill Pickle. Not pictured: Gravity, Breezy.

Tonight I'm at the Ironmasters Mansion Hostel with Rocky, Highlander, Chill Pickle, and Waffle Sole. A very nice AT establishment. Showered, laundry done, resupplied, and fed with a frozen pizza, it's time for bed.

View from the porch at the hostel.

Breakfast at 7 AM tomorrow, then back on the trail!

  

Day 2 - Across the Valley

Day 2

Darlington Shelter to Alec Kennedy Shelter

Time on Trail - 8:30

Total hiked - 18.5

Avg speed - 2.2 mph

If you've driven north on I-81 into Pennsylvania, you've travelled up the Cumberland Valley. Corn and soybean field stretch to the horizon, with light industry, distribution centers, and trucking companies clustered along the Interstate.

Looking right and left, you'll see two green ridges. My goal today was to walk from one to the other.

A morning view of the Cumberland Valley

I got an early start from the Darlington Shelter, dropping into the valley and passing through a rural district and following a scenic creek for some miles. Soon the unmistakable sound of heavy trucks loomed and I moved onto trails though mechanized farm fields toward the monster of I-81. 

Even after crossing, it's noise shadowed me for miles, eventually receding into the background as I passed through rural districts of suburbs and family farms.

Hiking the corn fields

I finally hit my lunch destination of Boiling Springs, an impossibly cute town, complete with a duck pond. At the regional AT office I met SOBO thru hikers Rock Man, Highlander, and Gravity. I'm pleased to report that every thru I've met so far has assumed I've also hiked from Maine - I'm taking that as a compliment...

The "Children's Pond" in Boiling Springs

After a few more miles I was out of the corn and back into the woods. Despite a couple of invites from the SOBOS to go a bit further and camp with them, I bailed at my planned destination. 18+ was enough for me today!

Day 1 - Trail Legs

Day 1 - Duncannon to Darlington Shelter

Miles - 11.5

Time on trail - 5:30

Average speed - 2.1 mph

There's a term in training called "specificity." To wit, cross training can be valuable, but you need to practice primarily in the sport you want to gain mastery in. One day on the trail has been enough to remind me of that principle, as I've started to break in a whole new set of muscles, and the aches that go with them. But on the whole, a good start. 

The first half of the day was spent getting to the start. A 2-1/2 hour drive to Harpers Ferry, a two hour ride my shuttle driver, and I was at the doorstep of the Doyle Hotel, a tired old 1905 hotel in the tired little blue-collar town of Duncannon, PA. 

The Doyle is an AT landmark, epitomizing the somewhat scruffy reality of AT hiking (high-end trekking it's not...). But the hosts are friendly, and thy actually make a good cheeseburger, complete with fresh-cut fries. And a beer at 11:30 seemed OK too.

Fueled up, I climbed out of town and onto the trail. 45 minutes later I was rewarded with a nice vista of the town and the Susquehanna River. Then it was into the green tunnel.

After several miles of slow and rocky trail, things smoothed out a bit and I started to make some better time, stopping  on the hours to stay hydrated. I made it into the shelter around 6, in time for dinner and a little company, with a husband and wife who retired early, a couple of other section hikers, and two SOBOs - Rocky and Bee Sting. A little time by the fire, then off to bed in my tent.

Putting it All Together

The final countdown

This series of posts has talked a lot about the gear I take. But how's that all fit into a pack? Pretty well, actually!

Here's my entire load, laid out on my work space. And, believe it or not, it all fits in my pack!

For you gearheads out there, I use an Osprey Exos 58L pack -- a new addition this year, taking the place of my old REI Flash 65L pack. The Flash was a good pack, reasonably priced and versatile, but the Osprey -- while technically smaller -- seems to carry the load better and has a superior suspension system.

The one rule of thumb I've always observed in backpacking is that, the less experienced the hiker, the bigger the pack. It's not uncommon for me to meet weekenders and section hikers carrying massive packs, while the true long-distance hikers keep it small. Based on my observations, the Osprey is a pretty typical pack size for someone who wants to do some serious miles.

Lists rule!

It may seem anal (and probably is), but I never take off on a trip without going through my checklist. Over the years I've developed a spread sheet that covers all the gear I need, complete with a color-coded check off system. If you're interested in taking a look, here it is:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AxruOQRCwQGNK67Hzwboq-I1hKUl29gQcK4-fp5tE_8/edit#gid=0

And that's all for now -- I'll be updating, starting tomorrow, as I hit the trail. Thanks for reading!

Packing Up - Part 4

Odds and ends

There's nothing more frustrating than leaving an item in my pack after settling down for the night. Unzip the sleeping bag, stumble around in the dark, poke into the dark recesses of my pack for what you need. That led to the Camp Bag.

The Camp Bag is a gallon ziplock bag that holds all the things I may want once I've settled in for the night. When I'm setting up camp all I have to do is pull it out and toss it by my sleeping bag and what I need is right there, in one place. Over the years the contents have become pretty set: ear plugs and BreathRight strips (I snore, and I don't want to listen to other snorers), my headlamp, a small AM/FM/WB radio with earphones, my iPhone charger, a paperback book, and a deck of cards. Originally I kept these items in a small stuff sack, but the clear bag makes it easier to find what you need right away.

I usually take a lot of photos and videos when I hike. You can see some of the hiking videos I've made on my YouTube Channel. While some prefer their iPhone, I'd rather keep mine turned off and packed away except for my evening text message to Carmel. So I take a small Panasonic "rugged" point-and-shoot camera. With a spare battery I've got plenty of backup power. For self-portraits I have small tripod, or I can attach it to my hiking pole with a rubber band.

Finally, one of my favorite backpacking hacks is a chunk of windshield reflector. It folds up small but gives you something dry to sit on, or can be put underneath your sleeping pad for some extra insulation. I've even pulled it into my sleeping bag to help capture heat on cold nights -- works surprisingly well for that! I often take a mylar space blanket too. It's handy to have for emergencies, and as a marathon runner, I've gotten plenty of them at the finish line.

Next time -- the completed pack and the final checklist.

Packing Up - Part 3

My kitchen

You can get by while hiking without a stove, but it's not something I'd like to do. There's nothing like the morale boost you get from a hot cup of coffee in the morning or a something warm to eat at the end of a long day. And if you're hiking in late fall or early spring being able to make a hot drink might be what's necessary to ward off hypothermia.

My cookset is pretty simple. A 1.5 liter titanium pot, titanium cup and spork, plus an alcohol stove, lighter, pot cozy, and windscreen. An alcohol stove isn't as fast as some of the alternatives, but it's light, indestructible, and the fuel is cheap. The entire system packs up neatly into the pot, so when it's time for dinner I only need to grab it, my fuel bottle, and the food bag.

All packed up!

 First aid

The biggest reason for first aid on the trail? Blisters. Number two? Sore muscles and joints. My first aid kit is pretty limited. I've never had a serious injury (knock on wood), but I'd enough nicks along the way to have a good idea of what to take to handle likely problems.

The entire first aid kit fits in a small ziplock bag.

 For medicines I carry ibuprofen ("Vitamin I" in hiker lingo), some benedryl tablets, and a few blister packs of antibiotic ointment. Also a small tube of hydorcortisone cream and some anti-fungal cream (wet shoes and socks can create big problems pretty quickly). Chapstick not only keeps your lips moist, but it's useful to cover chafing skin too. But the bulk of my first aid kit is moleskin. Even a few wet days can create blisters on your feet , and the best treatment is to slap on a chunk of moleskin and cover it with duct tape (I keep several feet of that wrapped around one of my hiking poles). One final item -- nail clippers. An ingrown toenail is no joke when you're walking 15-20 miles a day.

First aid in the field. Virginia, 2013.

Toiletries

Mother Nature doesn't take a vacation while you're hiking, so you've got to be prepared for the inevitable. Without a doubt mankind's greatest invention has to be the 1-gallon ziplock bag. It keeps that essential supply of TP safe and dry for when you need it. I always throw in small container of hand sanitizer -- it at least creates the illusion that you're actually keeping some part of your body clean, and it's useful for starting fires too. I also keep my water purification chemicals stowed away in my TP bag. That way they're conveniently at hand when I need to treat water.

Don't leave home with out it...

Next time -- odds and ends and putting it all together

Packing Up - Part 2

Sleep

Getting a good night's sleep can be challenging when I'm hiking. Of course there's the unfamiliar environment of sleeping in the woods, either in a tent or in a shelter. Small noises are magnified in your mind -- wait, what was that rustling in the woods? Was that a bear? Did I just hear banjos?

But eventually you learn to overcome those reactions. Then you have to come to terms with the reality that you're sleeping on the ground, or on a hard wooden shelter floor. And it's cold/hot/damp/windy. Good sleeping gear becomes important.

For this trip I'll be taking a North Face Aleutian 40-degree sleeping bag. It's a pretty good bag for summer or late spring/early fall conditions. It's a synthetic bag, so it's a bit heavier than a comparable down model, but it packs down fairly small and isn't too heavy. You can see from the pictures below how I use a compression stuff sack to pack it as small as possible.

Compression stuff sack in action.

I also stick a very lightweight silk sleeping bag liner in the sack. The liner helps keep the bag clean, and can serve as it's own cover if the weather's hot. I'm also packing a small inflatable pillow -- I think I'm getting soft in my old age. Previously I'd just bunch up my clothing stuff sack under my head -- not always the most satisfactory pillow.

A couple of years ago I switched to an inflatable air mattress, in lieu of my trusty old Ridgerest foam pad. Ridgerests are indestructible, make a great chair to sit on when rolled up, and can actually keep a can of  beer cold for many miles. Just put the can into the rolled up pad, and stuff socks in either end -- works like a charm!

Setting up camp, with my old Ridgerest to the right. SNP, VA, 2010

But my air mattress -- an REI AirRail -- offers a much cushier ride than the old Ridgerest ever did. And it has raised sides so you don't slide off the pad at night, something that happens rather easily if you're tenting on a slope. The air mattress adds a bit of weight to my pack and adds a little time to setting up and packing up, but it's well worth it to me.

My inflatable pad, on the left.

My tent straps onto the bottom of the pack. I like having the tent on the outside of the pack, so I can set it up quickly without opening the pack if the weather's bad. I attach it to one of loops on my pack with a carabiner as a safety measure, to make sure I don't lose the tent down a hill if the straps holding it work loose.

My tent packs up small and attaches nicely to the bottom of the pack. Note the carabiner on the right.

Next time: Cooking gear, toiletries, first aid

Packing Up - Part 1

From chaos, order

I leave on Thursday, so it's getting towards crunch time. Time for final packing and logistics. My shuttle is confirmed, so now it's up to me to be ready to go. 

And for a bit of practice, I'm writing this with my iPhone and the Blogger app, the same way I'll journal from the trail.

The first stages of packing up is a bit daunting. Rubbermaid boxes of gear are emptied, piling up into a disorganized mess on the family room pool table.

Although it looks bad, experience has taught me that if I start working my way through each of the big categories (food, sleep, cooking, hydration, etc.) things come together pretty quickly.

Food

I've got two missions here - prep a mail drop and pack my first few days supply.

The mail drop contains supplies I'll need for the second portion of the journey, and I'll ship it off to the hostel on Monday. That'll give it a week to get there via UPS.

Next is my starting supply - this is placed in a waterproof stuff sack that I can hang from a tree or bear pole when I'm in camp. In addition to food, I keep my toothpaste/brush and the bear bag rope (50' of paracord) in the bag. That way I don't have to search for it in my pack.

Unpacked 

In the stuff sack

Next time: Sleep and Shelter

What to Wear (Backpacking Edition)

Your first line of defense

Clothing has the power to make your hike pleasant, or make it miserable. I remember stepping off for my first backpacking trip wearing heavy boots, cotton blend shorts, and a cut-up t-shirt. By the end of the first day I had blisters on both feet, and painful rashes in regions best not mentioned. In addition, I was carrying plenty of extra clothes that I never took out of the pack (but I still had to haul them up and down the hills!).

At the trailhead, James River, VA, 2002

Over the years I've refined what I wear and the extra garments I take, aiming for a combination of light weight, comfort, and simplicity. To keep things simple I organize them into three categories: hiking clothes, camp clothes, and extra outerwear. Each category isn't mutually exclusive -- I'll use some gear for different purposes, depending on what the weather is like. And depending on the season, some items may not make the trip.

Hiking clothes

My usual hiking outfit. Near Laurel Falls, TN, 2014.

Backpacking is pretty much an endurance sport, so I try to dress the same way I would for a long run. That means lightweight running shorts, a technical fabric t-shirt, thin wool socks, and trail running shoes. The upside is that these are light, wick sweat away, and wash out and dry quickly. The downside? None that I can think of. Some hikers prefer cargo shorts, but I've found that when I wear those I tend to clutter up my pockets with a bunch of junk I don't need to carry. And I gave up boots a long time ago. Your ankles simply don't need the extra support of heavy boots, in my opinion. Winter hiking might be another issue, but I've gone through snow drifts of nearly a foot wearing trail runners. I keep my feet dry and warm by slipping plastic grocery bags over my socks when I run into snow or cold rain.

Trail runners dry out faster than hiking boots. Pickle Branch Shelter, VA 2011.

Camp clothes

One of the first things I'll do after reaching my shelter or campsite for the night is to change into a set of "camp clothes."

Relaxing in my camp clothes. Hurricane Mountain Shelter, VA, 2013

This is especially important if it cold or wet. It's easy to stay warm when you're moving, but hypothermia can settle in quickly on a cold day if you're wearing wet clothes. And even if it's warm, it's nice to change into something a little less dirty and "fragrant."My go to combination is a pair of lightweight running tights, a long-sleeve technical T-shirt, wool socks, and a pair of flip-flops or crocs. And in spring or fall I always pack a light-weight "puffy" jacket (down or synthetic) -- they're warm, light, and pack up small. I use a Patagonia NanoPuff -- awesome piece of gear.

Outerwear

Even on a short trip you should plan for inclement weather. A good rain jacket will keep the showers off and also serves double duty as a windbreaker or light outer layer when the weather's raw. I got a Marmot Precip jacket some years ago and it's never let me down. If the weather's likely to be cold I'll pack rain pants as an extra layer, but I don't worry about them in the summer months.

My Marmot Precip keeps the frost at bay, while my buff warms my head. Roan Mountain, TN, 2014.

For my head, I take a ball cap (keeps the rain off my glasses), and a "buff." A buff is a simple tube of stretchy material that you can use in a variety of different ways -- a neck gaiter, a balaclava, or as a hat (my favorite is the pirate look). Unlike a bandanna, buffs wick away moisture, so it doesn't get soaked with sweat on a hot day. For gloves I use army surplus GI wool gloves. They're cheap, warm, and very durable.

One final useful item is a mid-weight long-sleeve top with a quarter-length zipper. They're great for hiking in when the air is cool, and serve double duty as extra layer when you're sleeping or lounging around camp. They're often marketed as mid-weight long underwear tops, but I just layer it over my t-shirt. I've got a ratty Capilene top from Patagonia that's sure to mistaken for a cleaning rag someday, but I love it!

You can have my capilene top when you pry it from my cold, dead hands. Iron Mtn Gap, TN, 2014.

Next time - Packing it all up

Trail Food -- What's for Dinner?

Tonight's entree...

Stories are told of potential Appalachian Trail backpackers carrying packs burdened with massive amounts of food, convinced that they'd have no chance to resupply for hundreds of miles as they traversed the wilderness. But as I pointed out in my last post, it's unusual to go more than 4-5 days on the AT without some opportunity for resupply. A 4-5 day supply is still a pretty fair amount of food, so the hiker must make some smart decisions on what to carry.

Cooking dinner - near Pearisburg, VA, 2011.

The first rule is to forget about carrying fresh fruits and vegetables -- they're just too heavy, and they don't travel well. Sure, you can toss an apple or an orange into your pack for the first day or so, but after that you're out of luck, unless you happen to come across an abandoned orchard in the mountains (I have, and the apples were delicious!)

Snacking on apples - Greasy Creek Gap, TN, 2014.

Canned foods are definitely out -- way too heavy and bulky. Exceptions could once be made for items like canned tuna, but you can get that in foil-lined pouches now. One exception that's still valid? Canned beer -- tasty when cooled in a mountain spring or stream, and the aluminum cans are easy to pack out. Unfortunately that's a pretty rare treat, since nobody wants to carry a six-pack for days on end. But if you're hiking through Shanandoah National Park, the campstores and waysides offer plenty of resupply options.

Some hikers will pack freeze-dried backpacking meals, but they tend to be expensive and are usually only carried by weekenders and other short-timers. That leaves dry goods and foods that travel well as the staples of backpacking. Everyone's different, but here's a typical menu for a day on the trail:

Breakfast: Instant coffee (Starbucks Via is the best); protein bar or pop-tarts. In cooler weather I'll sometimes take instant oatmeal so I can start the day off with a hot meal.

Lunch: Tortillas with pepperoni and cheddar cheese. The cheese and pepperoni stay good for a surprisingly long time, even in warm weather.

Lunch. VA, 2011.

Dinner: Couscous with tuna or sausage. Couscous is one of my favorites -- you can buy it in bulk; it cooks with very little fuel, and it's light. I'll mix in some olive oil, dried vegetables, and spices to liven it up. Other go-to dinners are instant mashed potatoes, or Lipton noodles or rice side dishes -- one pouch equals one serving for a hungry hiker.

During the day I'll snack on energy bars or Snickers, and I'll often mix my water with drink mixes, like lemonade or sports drink powders. It adds some variety and keeps the calorie count up.

Restocking your provisions

If you're carrying food for 4 days, but planning to hike for 7-10, you've got to resupply. If my route goes through a town with a well-equipped grocery store, it's easy enough to stop in there for the goods I need. But more often I've relied on mail drops to get the supplies I need.

Mail drops are an old AT tradition. In the purest form, a hiker mails a box of supplies ahead to the local Post Office, addressed to themselves at General Delivery. Stop by during business hours, show some I.D., and you've got your package. Thru-hikers often utilize mail drops for more than just food. They'll send along extra clothing, spare parts, batteries, phone chargers, and even laptops from town to town, using what's called a 'bounce box." It eliminates the need to carry extra gear they may not need on the trail.

Lodgings along the AT usually accept mail drops, so I can kill two birds with one stone by having a supply of food and other essentials waiting for me at my planned town stops. For this trip I'll start light, and resupply on the third night, when I stay at the Ironmaster's Mansion Hostel.

Most AT hostels and other lodgings will hold mail drops for guests, or for a fee, if you're not a guest. Tennessee, 2014.

 Next time - What to wear.

Town Stop -- Trail Towns and Lodging

Town stops

When Earl Shaffer completed the first thru-hike of the AT in 1948 he spent only one night off the trail. Making that feat even more impressive is the fact that he didn't have a tent, and shelters were few and far between. Then again, Earl, didn't mind sleeping on the ground, wrapped up in an army surplus poncho and sheltering under a fallen tree.

I'm not so tough.

A real bed, a shower, TV, and a Subway next door! Near Atkins, VA, 2013.

On my longer trips I've found that getting off the trail every 4th night or so is a welcome break. It gives me a chance to take a shower, wash your clothes, and sit down and eat a meal that isn't in a 1.5-liter titanium pot.

But where to stay? Fortunately you're never really that far from a town on the AT. Even with a modest pace, you're likely to encounter an opportunity to make a town stop every 4-5 days -- or even more often in heavily populated areas like the mid-Atlantic.

Sometimes the trail leads directly into town, and lodging options, meals, and other services are in easy walking distance. In other areas you may need to hitch a few miles or call for a ride to get into town. The trail cuts right through towns like Hot Springs, NC and Damascus, VA, and they're very popular stops with AT hikers.

Hiking into Damascus, VA, 2014.

As a section hiker, I'm on a tight schedule, so town stops are worked into my schedule and only involve an overnight stay -- I've never taken a "zero day" (when you don't hike at all, but stay in town to rest and catch up on laundry, shopping, etc.). For some potential thru-hikers, the siren song of town days is their undoing -- they spend too much time off the trail and run out of time and money to finish their hike.

Lodging

When you're tired of sleeping in the woods, you've got options. In larger towns and near many road intersections there are motels, both local and chains. Many offer reduced hiker rates, and they're often near other services, like restaurants and stores. Motels have the advantage of privacy and a higher level of amenities, like endless hot showers, TV, and a free continental breakfast. I fondly remember hunkering down on a comfy bed with a pile of junk food in Atkins, VA, watching the "Indiana Jones" trilogy on TV, recovering from 5 days of hiking while washing/drying my gear and recharging for the next section. And in the morning I demolished the breakfast, plus packed enough for my lunch...

Likewise, some hikers choose a local Bed and Breakfast for their stay off the trail. Generally that's a somewhat more pricey option, though some B and B's in trail towns offer special rates for hikers.

A more genuine "trail experience" is to stay at a hiker hostel. Hostels can be hard to classify, since there's no real standard as to what a hostel is, or what it offers. Expect bunk rooms, shared bath rooms, and common areas which may include kitchen and laundry privileges, and varying levels of housekeeping. But you can always count on them to be cheaper than a motel -- I've spent as little as $5 (suggested donation), or as much as $30 for a "Hiker's Special" -- bunk, shower, towel, a frozen pizza, a pint of Ben and Jerry's, and a Coke. Money well spent in the latter case.

On the high end, there are hostels like Bears Den in northern Virginia. Run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC), Bear's Den is a beautiful old stone vacation home, converted into accommodations for hikers.

Bears Den Hostel, 2010 -- every bit as nice as it looks!

Bear's Den offers attentive caretakers, clean and comfortable lodging, and elegant common areas with an excellent library. I spent a very pleasant evening there in 2010, chilling out and reading a copy of Aldo Leopold's "A Sand County Almanac." You don't get a much better experience than that.

One the other end of the spectrum you'll find a variety of establishments of varying quality and very different vibes. These can range from a legendary trail stop in Tennessee that's an absolute dump (no names mentioned), to Woods Hole Hostel, a working organic farm (amazing food and company!) There are plenty of AT forums where you can get the skinny on hostels and other lodging options. A good place to start is this list at whiteblaze.net -- investigate the forums for other hiker's experiences to see if your lodging choice is a good fit for you.

Hikers relaxing on the porch at Woods Hole Hostel, 2013.

Next time - Food and resupply

Gimme Shelter

Be it ever so humble...

One of the most interesting aspects of hiking the AT is the shelter system. There are approximately 300 shelters along the length of the Trail, all intended for use by hikers, both long- and short-term. While the size and design of shelters varies, most are simple wooden structures, enclosed on three sides, with a sleeping platform that'll accommodate about six people. Hike in, roll out your pad and bag, and make yourself at home.

 

Taking a break at a typical AT shelter (the Tom Floyd Wayside, 2010).

Shelters are popular destinations. There's usually a reliable water source, a roof over your head and the company of your fellow hikers to socialize with. But one major downside of shelters is also the company of your fellow hikers. Simply put, it's sometimes hard to get a good night's sleep when you're listening to your bunkmates snore (and it cuts both ways, since I'm a snorer...). Not to mention, many AT shelters are infested with mice (and worse). The pitter-patter of tiny feet running around your bag and the gnawing of tiny teeth burrowing into your gear doesn't always make for prime sleeping. Still, a dry shelter with good company can be a cozy place during a rainy night on the trail.

Staking my claim at Hurricane Mountain Shelter, 2013.

 Tenting tonight...

It's not wise to count on shelters for your nightly accommodations. While plentiful, shelters aren't always evenly spaced, so you may find yourself having to go further or fewer miles than you'd planned if you're committed to staying in one. And there's no guarantee there's going to be space when you get there. That's why most hikers carry a tent, tarp, or hammock with them.

My tent (a Henry Shire TarpTent Moment) drying out after a couple of wet days in 2013.

A tent offers privacy and a little more peace and quiet than you'll find in a shelter, but there are downsides. Packing up a wet tent after a rainy night isn't a lot of fun. And finding a good, level tent site isn't always easy. Plus, sleeping by yourself in the woods can take a little getting used to. Even a squirrel rummaging around in leaves brings visions of a T Rex invading your camp until you get used to it. Still, all things considered, a good tent site on a pleasant night is hard to beat.

Morning coffee in the tent, near Mt. Rogers, VA, 2013.

 Next time -- Hostels, motels, and resupply.

Getting to the trail (and getting down the trail)

AT Trail Angel "Homer" has shuttled me on several hikes in Virginia. 

Shuttles and Trail Angels

One of the biggest challenges in hiking sections of the AT is figuring out the best way to start at one location and end at another. Sure, you can drive to the start, but how are you going to get back to your car when you finish?

That's where shuttle drivers come in. For a fee they'll pick you up at one spot on the trail and take you to another. So you can park your car at the end of the hike, and get driven to the start. Then all you have to do is walk back to your car. Just be sure you don't forget your car key -- I did, once...

Many shuttle drivers are previous thru-hikers who like lending a hand to other hikers. They can be broadly classified under the amorphous heading of "Trail Angels" -- people who make it their avocation to help out hikers. Others may run lodging establishments or outfitters in trail towns. At any rate, it's not free to use a shuttle, but I don't think anybody gets rich doing -- $1 a mile for a shuttle is a pretty typical rate. There are a variety of resources for finding shuttles -- websites like whiteblaze.net, guidebooks, or the well-maintained Appalachian Trail Conservancy's Shuttle Guide.

For my hike I'll drive to Harpers Ferry,WV on the morning of Sept. 17, then take a shuttle up to Duncannon, PA. Then it's up to me to lace up my shoes and cover the 125 miles back to the car.

Navigating the trail

In over 700 miles of hiking on the AT I've only gotten lost once, on a poorly marked section in Tennessee, but a few minutes of backtracking got me back on course. Of course there was the time I started hiking the wrong direction one morning, but that's a different story...

One of the many, many white blazes marking the AT.

Generally speaking, if you start hiking in the correct direction, follow the path, and watch for the white blazes on trees, posts, rocks, etc., you're not going to get lost on the AT. So most hikers don't carry maps (or at least they don't bother after their first hike). But trail info is still nice to have -- how far to the next town, water source, campsite, road crossing, shelter? Will this climb up the mountain ever stop? Where's the closest place to get pizza?

The gold standard for most section and thru hikers these days is the A.T. Guide, a clever publication that combines mileage tables with an elevation profile, and contains detailed town maps and lists of services. Vital info for anybody doing a long-distance AT hike, and very easy to use. To save weight, I simply photocopy the few pages I need for my trip, and eschew packing the whole book.

A sample page from the AT Guide

Next Time: Shelters, shelter, and lodgings