Day 12 - Downward to the Dam!

The rain I'd experienced the day before stopped overnight, but the shelter remained wrapped in a cool, heavy mist as morning crept in. I'd set my alarm for 6 AM, but overslept and found myself stowing my gear well after 7 AM.

Russell Field Shelter in the morning fog. 

With only 13.5 miles to go, and most of it downhill to Fontana Dam, I was anxious to get an early start and skipped my usual hot morning coffee for some "trail cold-brew" to go. Just add two packets of instant coffee to a liter of water, shake it up, and start walking.For some miles the fog lay heavy, but blue skies gradually broke through and it turned into a sunny day.

Shuckstack fire tower

I gradually began running into hikers starting their own GSMNP traverses. For whatever reason, more people seem to hike the Smokies starting at the south and working north. It may be because the climb out of Fontana is not as steep and rugged as the route I took to enter the park. And trail conditions in the southern half of the park were generally smoother as well. In each case, I had to pass along the bad news about the lack of water at the next few shelters. Most seem well prepared for this, but a few looked rather concerned as I passed along the info I'd gleaned while hiking south.

With about 4 miles to go, I took the short side trail (uphill, of course) to the Shuckstack fire tower. The tower supports only a small observation platform at the top, while the remains of the foundations of a firewarden's cabin are located below. The climb was a bit daunting, given my natural aversion to heights, but the view was excellent, and I could clearly see Fontana Lake and Fontana Dam, my ultimate destination.

It's an impressive view!

After a quick lunch break, it was time for the final push homewards, and I found myself jogging along the trail as it went down the mountain - an interesting sensation with a 30-pound  pack on your back.

Approaching Fontana Dam.

It was with real satisfaction that I strode the final yards across the top of Fontana Dam. 12 days, 175 miles, an average of 14 miles a day. Not Karl Meltzer speed, for sure, but pretty solid hiking over some big mountains and rough terrain. And best of all, nearly everything had gone according to plan. Yet I had one final surprise awaiting me.

Dead battery...

My trusty Subaru's battery was dead as a door nail. Fortunately the good people at the Fontana Dam Visitor's Center let me borrow their phone (no cell service at the dam), and I soon had AAA on the way. While waiting I talked to Samurai - the only true SOBO hiker I saw during the trip. Three months out from Maine, and with only 160 miles to go. Thin and ragged, but in good spirits.I offered a ride when my car got started, but he moved along before I was running again.

Samurai checks his trail guide

Eventually, I was on the way, with a new battery, a hot shower, and clean clothes. It was a great trip, and I'm looking forward to the future, when I can come back south to knock off the last miles between Fontana and Springer Mountain.

My white knight pickup truck.

Day 11 - Smoky Mountain rain

K9/18/16 - It's 8 PM - hiker midnight - and my journey has almost concluded. I have the spacious Russell Field Shelter all to myself, and overhead I can hear the intermittent patter of water dripping from the leaves onto the metal and plexiglas roof, a reminder of today's events. 

Today it rained. Except for some brief showers in the early morning hours of the fourth day, it's been dry throughout the trip. 

Hiking doesn't stop when it rains. You've simply got to gear up, put your head down, and plow ahead. As thruhikers say, "no rain, no Maine."

Morning scene - Silers Bald Shelter

Our threesome of last night grew by four after we'd turned in, as a group of four college students showed up under the guidance of their headlamps. They quickly settled in, and we all spent a fairly restful night.

By morning the wind had picked up and fog had rolled in. A sudden burst of wireless connectivity provided me with a weather forecast: a 90% chance of afternoon  thunderstorms, starting around 1-2 PM. With about 17 miles on the docket, that meant I needed to hustle.

The first 6 miles went smoothly, but then came a 6-mile stretch NOBOs had been warning about, with ascents up Thundee Miuntain and a stiff ascent over the exposed ridge of Rocky Top.

By the ascent of Thunder Mountain, the rain began in earnest, and on went my hat, rain jacket and pack cover. A steep and rocky trail made matters even more unpleasant. But as I hit the top of Thunder Miuntain, the rain eased, and I was able to traverse the exposed ridge lines with nothing worse than gusty winds and sheets of fog and mist whipping by. 

Eventually I descended to the Spence Field Shelter, the last reliable water source until Fontana Dam. I tanked up with a full four liters and made the decision to push on while the weather held.

The weather quickly turned back to sometimes heavy rain, but now I had the advantage of the best trail I'd seen in the Smokies so far - well graded, smooth, and sandy. I quickly knocked off the three miles to the next shelter and called it a day.

Gear drying time at Russell Field Shelter.

After a change of clothes and a hot mealI had time to get organized for the morning and laze away the afternoon in my sleeping bag, sipping hot tea and listening to football on my radio.

So ends another day on the trail. Tomorrow should be a fast downhill to Fontana, a shower, then the drive home to sleep in my own bed for the first time in almost two weeks. Can't wait!

Packing Up - Part 1

From chaos, order

I leave on Thursday, so it's getting towards crunch time. Time for final packing and logistics. My shuttle is confirmed, so now it's up to me to be ready to go. 

And for a bit of practice, I'm writing this with my iPhone and the Blogger app, the same way I'll journal from the trail.

The first stages of packing up is a bit daunting. Rubbermaid boxes of gear are emptied, piling up into a disorganized mess on the family room pool table.

Although it looks bad, experience has taught me that if I start working my way through each of the big categories (food, sleep, cooking, hydration, etc.) things come together pretty quickly.

Food

I've got two missions here - prep a mail drop and pack my first few days supply.

The mail drop contains supplies I'll need for the second portion of the journey, and I'll ship it off to the hostel on Monday. That'll give it a week to get there via UPS.

Next is my starting supply - this is placed in a waterproof stuff sack that I can hang from a tree or bear pole when I'm in camp. In addition to food, I keep my toothpaste/brush and the bear bag rope (50' of paracord) in the bag. That way I don't have to search for it in my pack.

Unpacked 

In the stuff sack

Next time: Sleep and Shelter

Trail Food -- What's for Dinner?

Tonight's entree...

Stories are told of potential Appalachian Trail backpackers carrying packs burdened with massive amounts of food, convinced that they'd have no chance to resupply for hundreds of miles as they traversed the wilderness. But as I pointed out in my last post, it's unusual to go more than 4-5 days on the AT without some opportunity for resupply. A 4-5 day supply is still a pretty fair amount of food, so the hiker must make some smart decisions on what to carry.

Cooking dinner - near Pearisburg, VA, 2011.

The first rule is to forget about carrying fresh fruits and vegetables -- they're just too heavy, and they don't travel well. Sure, you can toss an apple or an orange into your pack for the first day or so, but after that you're out of luck, unless you happen to come across an abandoned orchard in the mountains (I have, and the apples were delicious!)

Snacking on apples - Greasy Creek Gap, TN, 2014.

Canned foods are definitely out -- way too heavy and bulky. Exceptions could once be made for items like canned tuna, but you can get that in foil-lined pouches now. One exception that's still valid? Canned beer -- tasty when cooled in a mountain spring or stream, and the aluminum cans are easy to pack out. Unfortunately that's a pretty rare treat, since nobody wants to carry a six-pack for days on end. But if you're hiking through Shanandoah National Park, the campstores and waysides offer plenty of resupply options.

Some hikers will pack freeze-dried backpacking meals, but they tend to be expensive and are usually only carried by weekenders and other short-timers. That leaves dry goods and foods that travel well as the staples of backpacking. Everyone's different, but here's a typical menu for a day on the trail:

Breakfast: Instant coffee (Starbucks Via is the best); protein bar or pop-tarts. In cooler weather I'll sometimes take instant oatmeal so I can start the day off with a hot meal.

Lunch: Tortillas with pepperoni and cheddar cheese. The cheese and pepperoni stay good for a surprisingly long time, even in warm weather.

Lunch. VA, 2011.

Dinner: Couscous with tuna or sausage. Couscous is one of my favorites -- you can buy it in bulk; it cooks with very little fuel, and it's light. I'll mix in some olive oil, dried vegetables, and spices to liven it up. Other go-to dinners are instant mashed potatoes, or Lipton noodles or rice side dishes -- one pouch equals one serving for a hungry hiker.

During the day I'll snack on energy bars or Snickers, and I'll often mix my water with drink mixes, like lemonade or sports drink powders. It adds some variety and keeps the calorie count up.

Restocking your provisions

If you're carrying food for 4 days, but planning to hike for 7-10, you've got to resupply. If my route goes through a town with a well-equipped grocery store, it's easy enough to stop in there for the goods I need. But more often I've relied on mail drops to get the supplies I need.

Mail drops are an old AT tradition. In the purest form, a hiker mails a box of supplies ahead to the local Post Office, addressed to themselves at General Delivery. Stop by during business hours, show some I.D., and you've got your package. Thru-hikers often utilize mail drops for more than just food. They'll send along extra clothing, spare parts, batteries, phone chargers, and even laptops from town to town, using what's called a 'bounce box." It eliminates the need to carry extra gear they may not need on the trail.

Lodgings along the AT usually accept mail drops, so I can kill two birds with one stone by having a supply of food and other essentials waiting for me at my planned town stops. For this trip I'll start light, and resupply on the third night, when I stay at the Ironmaster's Mansion Hostel.

Most AT hostels and other lodgings will hold mail drops for guests, or for a fee, if you're not a guest. Tennessee, 2014.

 Next time - What to wear.

Gimme Shelter

Be it ever so humble...

One of the most interesting aspects of hiking the AT is the shelter system. There are approximately 300 shelters along the length of the Trail, all intended for use by hikers, both long- and short-term. While the size and design of shelters varies, most are simple wooden structures, enclosed on three sides, with a sleeping platform that'll accommodate about six people. Hike in, roll out your pad and bag, and make yourself at home.

 

Taking a break at a typical AT shelter (the Tom Floyd Wayside, 2010).

Shelters are popular destinations. There's usually a reliable water source, a roof over your head and the company of your fellow hikers to socialize with. But one major downside of shelters is also the company of your fellow hikers. Simply put, it's sometimes hard to get a good night's sleep when you're listening to your bunkmates snore (and it cuts both ways, since I'm a snorer...). Not to mention, many AT shelters are infested with mice (and worse). The pitter-patter of tiny feet running around your bag and the gnawing of tiny teeth burrowing into your gear doesn't always make for prime sleeping. Still, a dry shelter with good company can be a cozy place during a rainy night on the trail.

Staking my claim at Hurricane Mountain Shelter, 2013.

 Tenting tonight...

It's not wise to count on shelters for your nightly accommodations. While plentiful, shelters aren't always evenly spaced, so you may find yourself having to go further or fewer miles than you'd planned if you're committed to staying in one. And there's no guarantee there's going to be space when you get there. That's why most hikers carry a tent, tarp, or hammock with them.

My tent (a Henry Shire TarpTent Moment) drying out after a couple of wet days in 2013.

A tent offers privacy and a little more peace and quiet than you'll find in a shelter, but there are downsides. Packing up a wet tent after a rainy night isn't a lot of fun. And finding a good, level tent site isn't always easy. Plus, sleeping by yourself in the woods can take a little getting used to. Even a squirrel rummaging around in leaves brings visions of a T Rex invading your camp until you get used to it. Still, all things considered, a good tent site on a pleasant night is hard to beat.

Morning coffee in the tent, near Mt. Rogers, VA, 2013.

 Next time -- Hostels, motels, and resupply.

Getting to the trail (and getting down the trail)

AT Trail Angel "Homer" has shuttled me on several hikes in Virginia. 

Shuttles and Trail Angels

One of the biggest challenges in hiking sections of the AT is figuring out the best way to start at one location and end at another. Sure, you can drive to the start, but how are you going to get back to your car when you finish?

That's where shuttle drivers come in. For a fee they'll pick you up at one spot on the trail and take you to another. So you can park your car at the end of the hike, and get driven to the start. Then all you have to do is walk back to your car. Just be sure you don't forget your car key -- I did, once...

Many shuttle drivers are previous thru-hikers who like lending a hand to other hikers. They can be broadly classified under the amorphous heading of "Trail Angels" -- people who make it their avocation to help out hikers. Others may run lodging establishments or outfitters in trail towns. At any rate, it's not free to use a shuttle, but I don't think anybody gets rich doing -- $1 a mile for a shuttle is a pretty typical rate. There are a variety of resources for finding shuttles -- websites like whiteblaze.net, guidebooks, or the well-maintained Appalachian Trail Conservancy's Shuttle Guide.

For my hike I'll drive to Harpers Ferry,WV on the morning of Sept. 17, then take a shuttle up to Duncannon, PA. Then it's up to me to lace up my shoes and cover the 125 miles back to the car.

Navigating the trail

In over 700 miles of hiking on the AT I've only gotten lost once, on a poorly marked section in Tennessee, but a few minutes of backtracking got me back on course. Of course there was the time I started hiking the wrong direction one morning, but that's a different story...

One of the many, many white blazes marking the AT.

Generally speaking, if you start hiking in the correct direction, follow the path, and watch for the white blazes on trees, posts, rocks, etc., you're not going to get lost on the AT. So most hikers don't carry maps (or at least they don't bother after their first hike). But trail info is still nice to have -- how far to the next town, water source, campsite, road crossing, shelter? Will this climb up the mountain ever stop? Where's the closest place to get pizza?

The gold standard for most section and thru hikers these days is the A.T. Guide, a clever publication that combines mileage tables with an elevation profile, and contains detailed town maps and lists of services. Vital info for anybody doing a long-distance AT hike, and very easy to use. To save weight, I simply photocopy the few pages I need for my trip, and eschew packing the whole book.

A sample page from the AT Guide

Next Time: Shelters, shelter, and lodgings

Appalachian Trail Section Hike 2015 - An Introduction

My AT journeys to date -- 1/3 of the way done!

My route for this year's hike. I'll be going north to south, finishing in Harper's Ferry.

It's Hiking Time!

I've been backpacking on the Appalachian Trail (the "AT") since the late 1990s. I fondly remember my first multi-day trip -- 4 days and 3 nights hiking north from the James River to Reed's Gap on the Blue Ridge Parkway. 60 miles later I arrived at Reed's Gap -- exhausted, blistered, and sun-burned -- and I couldn't wait to get back out on the trail.

In the years since, I've knocked off 721 miles of the AT, traveling in sections from Erwin, TN, to the MD/PA border. Each year I try to add on a new section, and this year I've decided to write about my preparation and the hike itself.

The Plan

I'm currently training for the Richmond Marathon in November, so I didn't want to take too much time out of marathon prep for a hike. So this year I'm blocking out 7-8 days to hike south from Duncannon, PA, to Harper's Ferry, WV, a total of about 125 miles.

Pennsylvania doesn't usually show up on hiker's "must do" sections of the AT, but the hike is close, and I can drive to it, so there's less of an issue for travel time and expense. And it should be fun to finish in Harper's Ferry, the traditional "psychological" half-way point of the trail, and home of the headquarters for the Appalachian Trail Conservancy, the organization that coordinates the clubs that maintain the trail.

I'm planning on starting my hike on September 17 -- only a month away! In the meanwhile, I'll be posting about a variety of topics -- how I plan for a hike, the gear, clothing, and food I take with me, and some of what's involved when you actually hit the trail. And during the hike I'm hoping to post regular updates -- I hope you'll join me along the way!

Ken