Day 8 - Stairmaster to the Smokies

9/15/16 - The first thing I check when planning the next day's hike is the elevation profile. Today's looked pretty daunting, with several long climbs and an elevation difference of almost 4000 feet. Thank goodness I was only going 11 miles.

The dim, dusty bunk room at Standing Bear Farm.

My stay at Standing Bear Farm was a mixed bag. The good - $20 for a bunk, shower, and do-it-yourself laundry, plus frozen pizzas and beer (I'll have two pints of Fat Tire, please). The bad - a distinct lack of any basic housekeeping skills. Rustic is cool, but would it hurt to pick up a broom?

Carl, the go-to guy at Standing Bear (he has the key to the beer).

Despite that, I had a relaxing stay and left clean and resupplied, thanks to my mail drop. Soon I dropped my permit in the box and started up.

I'm official!

What was left was a hot, steep climb, made worse by a miscalculation that left me short of water over the last few miles. But all finished well, and I was the first into my shelter for the night. 

The view from my bunk.

Business picked up, and we've got 9 in the shelter, including a young lady who'll finish her flip-flop in Rockfish Gap. 

Shooting for 20 tomorrow, so it's just about bed time for me!

Day 6 - Karl and Max

Karl Meltzer (in yellow) leaves me in his dust while attempting an AT fastest time.

I'd been on the trail for about 90 minutes when I suddenly heard footsteps behind me. "Karl?" I asked. "Yes" he said. I congratulated him, wished him well, and he even obliged for a photo. Class act.

He trotted away, but I soon caught him at the nearby road crossing, where his crew was set up. After he departed, they offered up food and drink to me, and chatted about my trip. Kind of cool to have Scott Jurek (the current record holder) shooting the breeze and wishing you well on your trip. 

Historically significant trail magic.

Now back to the business at hand, the 2000 foot ascent up Bluff Mt. I paused for my crew-supplied Coke and PBJ and tackled the ascent with no problem. No doubt, I'm feeling stronger and covering miles more easily each day. The rest of the day went smoothly, and I was even moving well enough to take a leisurely one hour lunch break. 

After 15 miles Instopped for dinner at a shelter and shot the breeze with a duo from Key West. No doubt, they should have cast these two in the film version of "A Walk in the Woods." They're struggling south from Damascus at a painful 5-8 miles a day, while continuing to carry all the important essentials, like a fold-up saw and wind-up radio.

Summit view - Max Patch

Now the second highlight of the day - Max Patch. It's a grassy bald with 360- views, and one of the must-see spots on the trail. The perfect trifecta is to camp on the bald, so you can watch the sunset, stargaze, and then catch the dawn. Sunset down, two more to go!

What to Wear (Backpacking Edition)

Your first line of defense

Clothing has the power to make your hike pleasant, or make it miserable. I remember stepping off for my first backpacking trip wearing heavy boots, cotton blend shorts, and a cut-up t-shirt. By the end of the first day I had blisters on both feet, and painful rashes in regions best not mentioned. In addition, I was carrying plenty of extra clothes that I never took out of the pack (but I still had to haul them up and down the hills!).

At the trailhead, James River, VA, 2002

Over the years I've refined what I wear and the extra garments I take, aiming for a combination of light weight, comfort, and simplicity. To keep things simple I organize them into three categories: hiking clothes, camp clothes, and extra outerwear. Each category isn't mutually exclusive -- I'll use some gear for different purposes, depending on what the weather is like. And depending on the season, some items may not make the trip.

Hiking clothes

My usual hiking outfit. Near Laurel Falls, TN, 2014.

Backpacking is pretty much an endurance sport, so I try to dress the same way I would for a long run. That means lightweight running shorts, a technical fabric t-shirt, thin wool socks, and trail running shoes. The upside is that these are light, wick sweat away, and wash out and dry quickly. The downside? None that I can think of. Some hikers prefer cargo shorts, but I've found that when I wear those I tend to clutter up my pockets with a bunch of junk I don't need to carry. And I gave up boots a long time ago. Your ankles simply don't need the extra support of heavy boots, in my opinion. Winter hiking might be another issue, but I've gone through snow drifts of nearly a foot wearing trail runners. I keep my feet dry and warm by slipping plastic grocery bags over my socks when I run into snow or cold rain.

Trail runners dry out faster than hiking boots. Pickle Branch Shelter, VA 2011.

Camp clothes

One of the first things I'll do after reaching my shelter or campsite for the night is to change into a set of "camp clothes."

Relaxing in my camp clothes. Hurricane Mountain Shelter, VA, 2013

This is especially important if it cold or wet. It's easy to stay warm when you're moving, but hypothermia can settle in quickly on a cold day if you're wearing wet clothes. And even if it's warm, it's nice to change into something a little less dirty and "fragrant."My go to combination is a pair of lightweight running tights, a long-sleeve technical T-shirt, wool socks, and a pair of flip-flops or crocs. And in spring or fall I always pack a light-weight "puffy" jacket (down or synthetic) -- they're warm, light, and pack up small. I use a Patagonia NanoPuff -- awesome piece of gear.

Outerwear

Even on a short trip you should plan for inclement weather. A good rain jacket will keep the showers off and also serves double duty as a windbreaker or light outer layer when the weather's raw. I got a Marmot Precip jacket some years ago and it's never let me down. If the weather's likely to be cold I'll pack rain pants as an extra layer, but I don't worry about them in the summer months.

My Marmot Precip keeps the frost at bay, while my buff warms my head. Roan Mountain, TN, 2014.

For my head, I take a ball cap (keeps the rain off my glasses), and a "buff." A buff is a simple tube of stretchy material that you can use in a variety of different ways -- a neck gaiter, a balaclava, or as a hat (my favorite is the pirate look). Unlike a bandanna, buffs wick away moisture, so it doesn't get soaked with sweat on a hot day. For gloves I use army surplus GI wool gloves. They're cheap, warm, and very durable.

One final useful item is a mid-weight long-sleeve top with a quarter-length zipper. They're great for hiking in when the air is cool, and serve double duty as extra layer when you're sleeping or lounging around camp. They're often marketed as mid-weight long underwear tops, but I just layer it over my t-shirt. I've got a ratty Capilene top from Patagonia that's sure to mistaken for a cleaning rag someday, but I love it!

You can have my capilene top when you pry it from my cold, dead hands. Iron Mtn Gap, TN, 2014.

Next time - Packing it all up

Town Stop -- Trail Towns and Lodging

Town stops

When Earl Shaffer completed the first thru-hike of the AT in 1948 he spent only one night off the trail. Making that feat even more impressive is the fact that he didn't have a tent, and shelters were few and far between. Then again, Earl, didn't mind sleeping on the ground, wrapped up in an army surplus poncho and sheltering under a fallen tree.

I'm not so tough.

A real bed, a shower, TV, and a Subway next door! Near Atkins, VA, 2013.

On my longer trips I've found that getting off the trail every 4th night or so is a welcome break. It gives me a chance to take a shower, wash your clothes, and sit down and eat a meal that isn't in a 1.5-liter titanium pot.

But where to stay? Fortunately you're never really that far from a town on the AT. Even with a modest pace, you're likely to encounter an opportunity to make a town stop every 4-5 days -- or even more often in heavily populated areas like the mid-Atlantic.

Sometimes the trail leads directly into town, and lodging options, meals, and other services are in easy walking distance. In other areas you may need to hitch a few miles or call for a ride to get into town. The trail cuts right through towns like Hot Springs, NC and Damascus, VA, and they're very popular stops with AT hikers.

Hiking into Damascus, VA, 2014.

As a section hiker, I'm on a tight schedule, so town stops are worked into my schedule and only involve an overnight stay -- I've never taken a "zero day" (when you don't hike at all, but stay in town to rest and catch up on laundry, shopping, etc.). For some potential thru-hikers, the siren song of town days is their undoing -- they spend too much time off the trail and run out of time and money to finish their hike.

Lodging

When you're tired of sleeping in the woods, you've got options. In larger towns and near many road intersections there are motels, both local and chains. Many offer reduced hiker rates, and they're often near other services, like restaurants and stores. Motels have the advantage of privacy and a higher level of amenities, like endless hot showers, TV, and a free continental breakfast. I fondly remember hunkering down on a comfy bed with a pile of junk food in Atkins, VA, watching the "Indiana Jones" trilogy on TV, recovering from 5 days of hiking while washing/drying my gear and recharging for the next section. And in the morning I demolished the breakfast, plus packed enough for my lunch...

Likewise, some hikers choose a local Bed and Breakfast for their stay off the trail. Generally that's a somewhat more pricey option, though some B and B's in trail towns offer special rates for hikers.

A more genuine "trail experience" is to stay at a hiker hostel. Hostels can be hard to classify, since there's no real standard as to what a hostel is, or what it offers. Expect bunk rooms, shared bath rooms, and common areas which may include kitchen and laundry privileges, and varying levels of housekeeping. But you can always count on them to be cheaper than a motel -- I've spent as little as $5 (suggested donation), or as much as $30 for a "Hiker's Special" -- bunk, shower, towel, a frozen pizza, a pint of Ben and Jerry's, and a Coke. Money well spent in the latter case.

On the high end, there are hostels like Bears Den in northern Virginia. Run by the Potomac Appalachian Trail Club (PATC), Bear's Den is a beautiful old stone vacation home, converted into accommodations for hikers.

Bears Den Hostel, 2010 -- every bit as nice as it looks!

Bear's Den offers attentive caretakers, clean and comfortable lodging, and elegant common areas with an excellent library. I spent a very pleasant evening there in 2010, chilling out and reading a copy of Aldo Leopold's "A Sand County Almanac." You don't get a much better experience than that.

One the other end of the spectrum you'll find a variety of establishments of varying quality and very different vibes. These can range from a legendary trail stop in Tennessee that's an absolute dump (no names mentioned), to Woods Hole Hostel, a working organic farm (amazing food and company!) There are plenty of AT forums where you can get the skinny on hostels and other lodging options. A good place to start is this list at whiteblaze.net -- investigate the forums for other hiker's experiences to see if your lodging choice is a good fit for you.

Hikers relaxing on the porch at Woods Hole Hostel, 2013.

Next time - Food and resupply