Day 7 - Off the Trail

Backpacking a long trail for an extended period is like stepping into a different world. After only a few days your expectations, rhythms, and perceptions shift. Thoreau captured the essence:

"I wanted to live deep and suck out all the marrow of life, to live so sturdily and Spartan-like as to put to rout all that was not life, to cut a broad swath and shave close, to drive life into a corner, and reduce it to its lowest terms.” Walden

Those "lowest terms" boil down to the essentials: the rise and fall of the trail you're treading, the rocks and soil under your feet, the miles ahead and behind you, sunshine and rain, water, food, and shelter. 

Touches of Fall were in evidence as I hiked south

I was fortunate to have hiked in the company of some kindred spirits on this trip, so it seemed only fitting that I met many of them when I arrived at the ATC office in Harpers Ferry. Hand shakes, fist bumps, high-fives, and even a hug were exchanged as I accepted congratulations and wished them well for the rest of their journey.

My day today was short, but not uneventful. I awoke to the sound of trucks in the distance, laboring up the grades to cross South Mountain on US 40. My camp mate, Waffle Tread and I both packed up quietly, trying not to disturb Rocky, cowboy camping on the ground next to our sites. Waffle Tread told me he'd arrived at Midnight. Hike your own hike, I guess...

Rocky catches some Zs 

Waffle Tread left before me, while I finished my coffee. We hiked at similar speeds, so I was pretty certain I'd see him down the trail. It was a great morning on a hike distinguished by wonderful weather. The sun slanted through the trees and across the Civil War battlefield of South Mountain, a major engagement in the Antietam campaign.

Spot where Union general Reno fell in battle, 1862. South Mountain.

, MD.

Soon I caught up to Waffle Tread, at a nice overlook that presented a great southern view of the ridge we would follow until we hit the Potomac River. In this distance I could see the fog that indicated the valley of the Potomac, which we'd follow into Harper's Ferry. 

The ridge the trail follow is in the center. To the right, in the fog, is the Potomac River, leading to Harpers Ferry.

At Gathlands State Park I took a short break for a snack, then pushed on towards the final stretch of ridgeline and the descent to the C & O Canal Towpath, the final 3 miles into Harpers Ferry. Waffle Tread and I hooked up and started hiking together, only to be joined by a beagle dog. I called the number on "Sammy's" tag, and the owner, rather nonchalantly, said he'd meet us when the trail came off the ridge. Unfortunately, Sammy the dog decided to run off after sometime before then. When we met the owner

Waffle Tread and I pose at Weaverton Cliffs

sitting in his car at the agreed upon road crossing he was rather grumpy and put out about the fact I didn't have his dog with me. Turns out that Sammy is a serial offender, and runs off to the AT all the time -- the next hiker down the trail brought him down. My advice -- learn to take care of your own damned dog, and quit leaving it up to us hikers to do it for you (just my opinion).

After an awesome view of the Potomac from Weaverton Cliffs, we trudged up the C & O towpath until we finally reached the promised land of Harpers Ferry. Being a Frenchman, Waffle Tread immediately suggested we stop for a beer. Being an American, I immediately agreed. After at a beer and sandwich at the Potomac Grille (formerly the Secret Six Tavern, but exactly the same as in 2010), we walked up to the ATC Headquarters, where I had a nice reunion with Gravity, Rockman, Highlander, Breezy, and Rocky.

"Spike" is officially photographed at ATC headquarters in Harper's Ferry!

After having my picture taken at ATC HQ, we backtracked to the town and caught the shuttle bus to my car. I drove Waffle Tread to the next trailhead, and hit the highway home, back to the world of fast cars, gas stations, mini-marts, and the the rest of the best of American culture. I can't wait for next year!

Following a white blaze into Harpers Ferry.

Day 6 - Smooth Sailing

Day 6 -- Campsite to Dahlgren Bacpacker's Campground

Distance - 24.3 miles

Time on Trail - 11:30

Speed - 2.1 mph

Yesterday had ended on a down note, sheltering in my tent from rain storms. But overnight the rain abated and I slept well until about 4 AM. By 5 I thought "why not?" and started packing my gear. At 6 AM, sans breakfast, I started off with only my headlamp to guide me.

It was eerie, walking through the darkness and seeing the eyes of owls/deer/raccoons/cougars/bigfoot reflecting in your headlamp's light (I think they were owls, actually), but soon I crossed the Mason-Dixon Line (no Trump wall yet) and struck south into MD.

Sneaking into MD.

At Penmar Park I grabbed a snack and admired the predawn lights of towns to the west. Proceeding south for 5 miles I stopped for my morning Joe at Ravens Roost Shelter. Knowing it was a big day, I also indulged in spoonfuls of peanut butter and trail mix - a simple but potent energy boost.

After some initial climbs and rough going, the trail smoothed out into long ridge walks on wide trails. I started making time, getting on schedule after a slow start in the darkness.

As I hiked, I heard a voice from behind - "Breezy", one of the small bubble of SOBOs I'd been traveling in sync with. She and I hiked along for a mile or so, shooting the breeze, then on a downhill she skipped away. Actually, literally, skipped away. The power of youth...

By now it was a glorious day, sunny but cool, with a touch of fall in the air. I crossed I-70, well caged in to protect the cars below. Beyond that was a quiet residential neighborhood. The oddity of passing well-maintained yards guarded by leashed dogs yapping at hikers was somewhat surreal.

Crossing I-70

A few more miles and I hit the original Washington Monument, a lovely state park (look it up!). Because of a lightning strike the tower was closed, so I admired the view and relaxed in the grass as compensation. 

Closed. 

Still a nice view!

45 minutes later I was in the Dahlgren Backpacker's Campground, a somewhat unique establishment. No fee, ample tent pads, and hot showers. Best of all it's 1/4 mile from a fine restaurant on US 40 (the old National Road) -- the Old South Mountain Inn, a fixture since the days of the French and Indian War. And they love serving hikers (assuming you shower first).

Yup - prime rib (the Tuesday special)

So having showered, eaten (prime rib) , and had some wine, I retired to my tent to catch up today's journey for you. The trail ends for me tomorrow - thanks for tagging along so far with me!

Day 5 - Trail Tag

Day 5 - Quarry Gap Shelter to campsite 

Total distance - 19.9 miles

Time on Trail - 9:50

Average speed - 2 mph

The AT has been described as a "linear community." It's a good description. Bonds form quickly between people traveling the same direction at roughly the same speed. Age doesn't seem to matter. The SOBOs I've met are in their 20s, but take a friendly interest in my daily destination, even encouraging me to travel to the same spots. And it works both ways - I find myself looking forward to seeing familiar faces at the end of the day -- safety in numbers, I guess.

Extended trail "families" have a keen interest in who's ahead and who's behind. Once this was kept track of in shelter registers, but cell phones and texts have taken over a lot of the work. Even after only 5 days on the trail, I have a good idea of the whereabouts of a dozen or so people, and a general idea of when I'll most likely see them again. 

Tonight I'm tenting away from my little bubble of hikers. A lovely spot by a creek, marred only by the fact that it's raining steadily outside. Despite a few raindrops I got in nearly 20 miles and even took an hour lunch break and siesta. And I was able to set up and eat dinner before the rain forced me in.

Day 5 selfie - Chimney Rocks, PA

Tomorrow I cross the Mason-Dixon Line and start crossing Maryland. I'm shooting for the Dahlgren Backpackers Campground. Free, right on the trail, and with hot showers. I'm betting I'll meet some people I know there.

Day 4 - Hitting my stride

Day 4 - Ironmasters Hostel to Quarry Gap Shelter

Distance - 17.4

Time on Trail- 7:15

Avg speed - 2.4 mph

My stay at the Ironmasters Hostel was pleasant and restful. Check-in started promptly at 5 - for $31 I got bed linens, towel, and washcloth; a frozen pizza and a coke. Continental breakfast in the morning too. Waffle Tread and I split the $3 cost of laundry, and soon I was showered, fed, and supplied with clean clothes for the morning. Time for some reading on the porch and blog updating.

At the AT midpoint marker

The plan for today was a 17 mile leg, giving myself a little more break-in time before I upped the mileage over the home stretch. The weather was cooler, traill conditions were good, with a smooth treadway and only a few significant climbs, so despite a 30-minute second breakfast and a nice phone call to Carmel, I rolled into the shelter about 3 PM. 

Wide, smooth trails were common today.

Despite the early hour I resisted the temptation to push on. The shelter was impossibly nice, and my pack would only get lighter as I ate through my food. 

The Quarry Gap Shelter.

A big group is here tonight - 6 thruhikers, including Float, who will complete his hike in Harpers Ferry in a few days. A congenial group, and it looks like a nice evening for sleeping.

Day 3 - Puttering across PA

Day 3

Alec Kennedy Shelter to Ironmasters Mansion Hostel

Time on trail - 8:10

Miles - 16

Avg speed - 1.9 mph

I'd thought I'd be alone at the Alec Kennedy Shelter, but just after dark a dad and two kids hiked in. The kids (boy 10, and girl 11) were delightful and the dad unfailingly polite, so it was fun to talk to them about trail life.

In the morning I described how my stove worked, what I ate, and how I packed my gear to a rapt audience and then hit the trail. 

Today wasn't a long day (about 16 miles) so there was no need to rush. Hike an hour, take a break, hike another hour, take a longer break. 

Seven or so miles in I took a short detour to the Green Mountain General Store; indulged in a Coke and an ice cream sandwich and talked to Waffle Sole, a Frenchman who's done several AT section hikes. 

Moving forward, I stopped for a lunch and nap at the next shelter, catching up with Bee Sting before he moved on.

Lunch and siesta.

After a putzy morning, it was time to make some miles. I picked up the pace and knocked out some solid miles to arrive at Pine Grove Furnace State Park, a lovely PA state park.

As proof I'm in the SOBO bubble I ran into a pod of SOBOs hanging out in the park, most of whom I actually had already met.

SOBOs - what's a 56-year old guy doing hanging out with them? From left: Rockman, Highlander, "unknown", Chill Pickle. Not pictured: Gravity, Breezy.

Tonight I'm at the Ironmasters Mansion Hostel with Rocky, Highlander, Chill Pickle, and Waffle Sole. A very nice AT establishment. Showered, laundry done, resupplied, and fed with a frozen pizza, it's time for bed.

View from the porch at the hostel.

Breakfast at 7 AM tomorrow, then back on the trail!

  

Day 2 - Across the Valley

Day 2

Darlington Shelter to Alec Kennedy Shelter

Time on Trail - 8:30

Total hiked - 18.5

Avg speed - 2.2 mph

If you've driven north on I-81 into Pennsylvania, you've travelled up the Cumberland Valley. Corn and soybean field stretch to the horizon, with light industry, distribution centers, and trucking companies clustered along the Interstate.

Looking right and left, you'll see two green ridges. My goal today was to walk from one to the other.

A morning view of the Cumberland Valley

I got an early start from the Darlington Shelter, dropping into the valley and passing through a rural district and following a scenic creek for some miles. Soon the unmistakable sound of heavy trucks loomed and I moved onto trails though mechanized farm fields toward the monster of I-81. 

Even after crossing, it's noise shadowed me for miles, eventually receding into the background as I passed through rural districts of suburbs and family farms.

Hiking the corn fields

I finally hit my lunch destination of Boiling Springs, an impossibly cute town, complete with a duck pond. At the regional AT office I met SOBO thru hikers Rock Man, Highlander, and Gravity. I'm pleased to report that every thru I've met so far has assumed I've also hiked from Maine - I'm taking that as a compliment...

The "Children's Pond" in Boiling Springs

After a few more miles I was out of the corn and back into the woods. Despite a couple of invites from the SOBOS to go a bit further and camp with them, I bailed at my planned destination. 18+ was enough for me today!

Day 1 - Trail Legs

Day 1 - Duncannon to Darlington Shelter

Miles - 11.5

Time on trail - 5:30

Average speed - 2.1 mph

There's a term in training called "specificity." To wit, cross training can be valuable, but you need to practice primarily in the sport you want to gain mastery in. One day on the trail has been enough to remind me of that principle, as I've started to break in a whole new set of muscles, and the aches that go with them. But on the whole, a good start. 

The first half of the day was spent getting to the start. A 2-1/2 hour drive to Harpers Ferry, a two hour ride my shuttle driver, and I was at the doorstep of the Doyle Hotel, a tired old 1905 hotel in the tired little blue-collar town of Duncannon, PA. 

The Doyle is an AT landmark, epitomizing the somewhat scruffy reality of AT hiking (high-end trekking it's not...). But the hosts are friendly, and thy actually make a good cheeseburger, complete with fresh-cut fries. And a beer at 11:30 seemed OK too.

Fueled up, I climbed out of town and onto the trail. 45 minutes later I was rewarded with a nice vista of the town and the Susquehanna River. Then it was into the green tunnel.

After several miles of slow and rocky trail, things smoothed out a bit and I started to make some better time, stopping  on the hours to stay hydrated. I made it into the shelter around 6, in time for dinner and a little company, with a husband and wife who retired early, a couple of other section hikers, and two SOBOs - Rocky and Bee Sting. A little time by the fire, then off to bed in my tent.

Putting it All Together

The final countdown

This series of posts has talked a lot about the gear I take. But how's that all fit into a pack? Pretty well, actually!

Here's my entire load, laid out on my work space. And, believe it or not, it all fits in my pack!

For you gearheads out there, I use an Osprey Exos 58L pack -- a new addition this year, taking the place of my old REI Flash 65L pack. The Flash was a good pack, reasonably priced and versatile, but the Osprey -- while technically smaller -- seems to carry the load better and has a superior suspension system.

The one rule of thumb I've always observed in backpacking is that, the less experienced the hiker, the bigger the pack. It's not uncommon for me to meet weekenders and section hikers carrying massive packs, while the true long-distance hikers keep it small. Based on my observations, the Osprey is a pretty typical pack size for someone who wants to do some serious miles.

Lists rule!

It may seem anal (and probably is), but I never take off on a trip without going through my checklist. Over the years I've developed a spread sheet that covers all the gear I need, complete with a color-coded check off system. If you're interested in taking a look, here it is:

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1AxruOQRCwQGNK67Hzwboq-I1hKUl29gQcK4-fp5tE_8/edit#gid=0

And that's all for now -- I'll be updating, starting tomorrow, as I hit the trail. Thanks for reading!

Packing Up - Part 4

Odds and ends

There's nothing more frustrating than leaving an item in my pack after settling down for the night. Unzip the sleeping bag, stumble around in the dark, poke into the dark recesses of my pack for what you need. That led to the Camp Bag.

The Camp Bag is a gallon ziplock bag that holds all the things I may want once I've settled in for the night. When I'm setting up camp all I have to do is pull it out and toss it by my sleeping bag and what I need is right there, in one place. Over the years the contents have become pretty set: ear plugs and BreathRight strips (I snore, and I don't want to listen to other snorers), my headlamp, a small AM/FM/WB radio with earphones, my iPhone charger, a paperback book, and a deck of cards. Originally I kept these items in a small stuff sack, but the clear bag makes it easier to find what you need right away.

I usually take a lot of photos and videos when I hike. You can see some of the hiking videos I've made on my YouTube Channel. While some prefer their iPhone, I'd rather keep mine turned off and packed away except for my evening text message to Carmel. So I take a small Panasonic "rugged" point-and-shoot camera. With a spare battery I've got plenty of backup power. For self-portraits I have small tripod, or I can attach it to my hiking pole with a rubber band.

Finally, one of my favorite backpacking hacks is a chunk of windshield reflector. It folds up small but gives you something dry to sit on, or can be put underneath your sleeping pad for some extra insulation. I've even pulled it into my sleeping bag to help capture heat on cold nights -- works surprisingly well for that! I often take a mylar space blanket too. It's handy to have for emergencies, and as a marathon runner, I've gotten plenty of them at the finish line.

Next time -- the completed pack and the final checklist.

Packing Up - Part 3

My kitchen

You can get by while hiking without a stove, but it's not something I'd like to do. There's nothing like the morale boost you get from a hot cup of coffee in the morning or a something warm to eat at the end of a long day. And if you're hiking in late fall or early spring being able to make a hot drink might be what's necessary to ward off hypothermia.

My cookset is pretty simple. A 1.5 liter titanium pot, titanium cup and spork, plus an alcohol stove, lighter, pot cozy, and windscreen. An alcohol stove isn't as fast as some of the alternatives, but it's light, indestructible, and the fuel is cheap. The entire system packs up neatly into the pot, so when it's time for dinner I only need to grab it, my fuel bottle, and the food bag.

All packed up!

 First aid

The biggest reason for first aid on the trail? Blisters. Number two? Sore muscles and joints. My first aid kit is pretty limited. I've never had a serious injury (knock on wood), but I'd enough nicks along the way to have a good idea of what to take to handle likely problems.

The entire first aid kit fits in a small ziplock bag.

 For medicines I carry ibuprofen ("Vitamin I" in hiker lingo), some benedryl tablets, and a few blister packs of antibiotic ointment. Also a small tube of hydorcortisone cream and some anti-fungal cream (wet shoes and socks can create big problems pretty quickly). Chapstick not only keeps your lips moist, but it's useful to cover chafing skin too. But the bulk of my first aid kit is moleskin. Even a few wet days can create blisters on your feet , and the best treatment is to slap on a chunk of moleskin and cover it with duct tape (I keep several feet of that wrapped around one of my hiking poles). One final item -- nail clippers. An ingrown toenail is no joke when you're walking 15-20 miles a day.

First aid in the field. Virginia, 2013.

Toiletries

Mother Nature doesn't take a vacation while you're hiking, so you've got to be prepared for the inevitable. Without a doubt mankind's greatest invention has to be the 1-gallon ziplock bag. It keeps that essential supply of TP safe and dry for when you need it. I always throw in small container of hand sanitizer -- it at least creates the illusion that you're actually keeping some part of your body clean, and it's useful for starting fires too. I also keep my water purification chemicals stowed away in my TP bag. That way they're conveniently at hand when I need to treat water.

Don't leave home with out it...

Next time -- odds and ends and putting it all together

Packing Up - Part 2

Sleep

Getting a good night's sleep can be challenging when I'm hiking. Of course there's the unfamiliar environment of sleeping in the woods, either in a tent or in a shelter. Small noises are magnified in your mind -- wait, what was that rustling in the woods? Was that a bear? Did I just hear banjos?

But eventually you learn to overcome those reactions. Then you have to come to terms with the reality that you're sleeping on the ground, or on a hard wooden shelter floor. And it's cold/hot/damp/windy. Good sleeping gear becomes important.

For this trip I'll be taking a North Face Aleutian 40-degree sleeping bag. It's a pretty good bag for summer or late spring/early fall conditions. It's a synthetic bag, so it's a bit heavier than a comparable down model, but it packs down fairly small and isn't too heavy. You can see from the pictures below how I use a compression stuff sack to pack it as small as possible.

Compression stuff sack in action.

I also stick a very lightweight silk sleeping bag liner in the sack. The liner helps keep the bag clean, and can serve as it's own cover if the weather's hot. I'm also packing a small inflatable pillow -- I think I'm getting soft in my old age. Previously I'd just bunch up my clothing stuff sack under my head -- not always the most satisfactory pillow.

A couple of years ago I switched to an inflatable air mattress, in lieu of my trusty old Ridgerest foam pad. Ridgerests are indestructible, make a great chair to sit on when rolled up, and can actually keep a can of  beer cold for many miles. Just put the can into the rolled up pad, and stuff socks in either end -- works like a charm!

Setting up camp, with my old Ridgerest to the right. SNP, VA, 2010

But my air mattress -- an REI AirRail -- offers a much cushier ride than the old Ridgerest ever did. And it has raised sides so you don't slide off the pad at night, something that happens rather easily if you're tenting on a slope. The air mattress adds a bit of weight to my pack and adds a little time to setting up and packing up, but it's well worth it to me.

My inflatable pad, on the left.

My tent straps onto the bottom of the pack. I like having the tent on the outside of the pack, so I can set it up quickly without opening the pack if the weather's bad. I attach it to one of loops on my pack with a carabiner as a safety measure, to make sure I don't lose the tent down a hill if the straps holding it work loose.

My tent packs up small and attaches nicely to the bottom of the pack. Note the carabiner on the right.

Next time: Cooking gear, toiletries, first aid

Packing Up - Part 1

From chaos, order

I leave on Thursday, so it's getting towards crunch time. Time for final packing and logistics. My shuttle is confirmed, so now it's up to me to be ready to go. 

And for a bit of practice, I'm writing this with my iPhone and the Blogger app, the same way I'll journal from the trail.

The first stages of packing up is a bit daunting. Rubbermaid boxes of gear are emptied, piling up into a disorganized mess on the family room pool table.

Although it looks bad, experience has taught me that if I start working my way through each of the big categories (food, sleep, cooking, hydration, etc.) things come together pretty quickly.

Food

I've got two missions here - prep a mail drop and pack my first few days supply.

The mail drop contains supplies I'll need for the second portion of the journey, and I'll ship it off to the hostel on Monday. That'll give it a week to get there via UPS.

Next is my starting supply - this is placed in a waterproof stuff sack that I can hang from a tree or bear pole when I'm in camp. In addition to food, I keep my toothpaste/brush and the bear bag rope (50' of paracord) in the bag. That way I don't have to search for it in my pack.

Unpacked 

In the stuff sack

Next time: Sleep and Shelter

What to Wear (Backpacking Edition)

Your first line of defense

Clothing has the power to make your hike pleasant, or make it miserable. I remember stepping off for my first backpacking trip wearing heavy boots, cotton blend shorts, and a cut-up t-shirt. By the end of the first day I had blisters on both feet, and painful rashes in regions best not mentioned. In addition, I was carrying plenty of extra clothes that I never took out of the pack (but I still had to haul them up and down the hills!).

At the trailhead, James River, VA, 2002

Over the years I've refined what I wear and the extra garments I take, aiming for a combination of light weight, comfort, and simplicity. To keep things simple I organize them into three categories: hiking clothes, camp clothes, and extra outerwear. Each category isn't mutually exclusive -- I'll use some gear for different purposes, depending on what the weather is like. And depending on the season, some items may not make the trip.

Hiking clothes

My usual hiking outfit. Near Laurel Falls, TN, 2014.

Backpacking is pretty much an endurance sport, so I try to dress the same way I would for a long run. That means lightweight running shorts, a technical fabric t-shirt, thin wool socks, and trail running shoes. The upside is that these are light, wick sweat away, and wash out and dry quickly. The downside? None that I can think of. Some hikers prefer cargo shorts, but I've found that when I wear those I tend to clutter up my pockets with a bunch of junk I don't need to carry. And I gave up boots a long time ago. Your ankles simply don't need the extra support of heavy boots, in my opinion. Winter hiking might be another issue, but I've gone through snow drifts of nearly a foot wearing trail runners. I keep my feet dry and warm by slipping plastic grocery bags over my socks when I run into snow or cold rain.

Trail runners dry out faster than hiking boots. Pickle Branch Shelter, VA 2011.

Camp clothes

One of the first things I'll do after reaching my shelter or campsite for the night is to change into a set of "camp clothes."

Relaxing in my camp clothes. Hurricane Mountain Shelter, VA, 2013

This is especially important if it cold or wet. It's easy to stay warm when you're moving, but hypothermia can settle in quickly on a cold day if you're wearing wet clothes. And even if it's warm, it's nice to change into something a little less dirty and "fragrant."My go to combination is a pair of lightweight running tights, a long-sleeve technical T-shirt, wool socks, and a pair of flip-flops or crocs. And in spring or fall I always pack a light-weight "puffy" jacket (down or synthetic) -- they're warm, light, and pack up small. I use a Patagonia NanoPuff -- awesome piece of gear.

Outerwear

Even on a short trip you should plan for inclement weather. A good rain jacket will keep the showers off and also serves double duty as a windbreaker or light outer layer when the weather's raw. I got a Marmot Precip jacket some years ago and it's never let me down. If the weather's likely to be cold I'll pack rain pants as an extra layer, but I don't worry about them in the summer months.

My Marmot Precip keeps the frost at bay, while my buff warms my head. Roan Mountain, TN, 2014.

For my head, I take a ball cap (keeps the rain off my glasses), and a "buff." A buff is a simple tube of stretchy material that you can use in a variety of different ways -- a neck gaiter, a balaclava, or as a hat (my favorite is the pirate look). Unlike a bandanna, buffs wick away moisture, so it doesn't get soaked with sweat on a hot day. For gloves I use army surplus GI wool gloves. They're cheap, warm, and very durable.

One final useful item is a mid-weight long-sleeve top with a quarter-length zipper. They're great for hiking in when the air is cool, and serve double duty as extra layer when you're sleeping or lounging around camp. They're often marketed as mid-weight long underwear tops, but I just layer it over my t-shirt. I've got a ratty Capilene top from Patagonia that's sure to mistaken for a cleaning rag someday, but I love it!

You can have my capilene top when you pry it from my cold, dead hands. Iron Mtn Gap, TN, 2014.

Next time - Packing it all up